3/22/2017

What to eat in New Orleans 2

Gumbo- a hearty sort of bouillabaisse stew, starts with a roux (flour cooked in hot oil, then added to stock), to which is added file and other spices, vegetables, meats (seafood, fish, game, etc) and always served with rice. Various versions are thicker or spicier but I have learned, the darker, the better.

I love Creole (upscale dishes, based on French cooking techniques with local ingredients) and Cajun (down home, comfort food) cuisine so much that I have to visit New Orleans about every 3 years just to get my fix. I have learned to cook some of the  items I enjoy, such as red beans and rice (mine are the best, I must say, after many years of trial and error), but while I keep trying to make gumbo, it remains elusive to me. I come close- and have watched dozens of youtube videos on how to properly make a roux, but mine still isn't just right.
Shrimp and grits - For some reason, the shrimp you get in NoLa is softer and fluffier, has a "melt in your mouth" texture and is tastier than what we can get in Dallas. Perhaps that's the difference between fresh and frozen. This version of shrimp n grits, above, has a sprinkling of thin crisp fried onions on top, as a garnish. It was an adequate version I got in a pub. (The best was on a previous visit, at a restaurant in the garden district named Atchafalaya. Still the one to beat.). Typically, the shrimp are served on top of the grits, which are infused with spices, often chopped veggies, cheese, and a remoulade sauce.

French bread- The French baguette ubiquitous (seriously, all the restaurants get them from the same bakery, which I tried to shop from, but they don't sell retail, just to the trade.) in NoLa is a bit crisper and flakier on the outside, and softer on the inside, than you typically get in Paris. It is still chewy but not so hard. I have spent a lot of time studying this; trust me. 
 Eggs Benedict - Breakfast or brunch at Brennans. With a mimosa. Perfect!
Brisket poboy at Tujagues, with a Sazerac (the empty glass.) Not your typical Texas style smoked BBQ brisket, this one is boiled, which sounds gross, but it is boiled with spicy Cajun seasonings, so it is mighty tasty.
Alligator sausage poboy, with potato salad
Fried shrimp poboy - my personal favorite
Oysters- Oyster shucker at Bourbon House in NoLa. I am always surprised these guys don't cut their own hands, the oysters can be slippery devils. Raw or in a gumbo, fried or however, they are delicious.
Bread pudding - Is not a pudding in the traditional sense (a custard made from eggs, milk, etc) but instead is a very French way to use up day old bread- by shredding it into small pieces, soaking it in liquor, melted butter, brown sugar, cinnamon and other seasonings, sometimes adding (often brandied) fruit or chocolate, then mashing it all up and baking till done. Add a sauce of caramel, chocolate, or more liquor, and you have a very tasty sort of drunken cake.

Beignets - Made famous by the Cafe du Monde, I first tasted these on a high school trip in 1976 and fell in love. Just be careful not to inhale as you take a bite, or you will nearly choke to death on powdered sugar. Open 24 hours, you can eat them for breakfast, an afternoon pick-me-up, or a midnight snack. 

Favorite Cities: New Orleans in springtime

 NoLa garden in March- A recent visit (spring break in Texas, mid-march) to NoLa was restorative and fun. Spring is the best time to visit New Orleans if you don't enjoy hot humid weather and crowds. Summers are typically in the 90'sF with 100% humidity, autumn can be nice (but no flowers are blooming), winters are mild and sunny (but I'd avoid Mardi Gras season unless you specifically want to spend days in a nightmarish mosh pit of drunken revelry).
Jackson Square- New Orleans is one of the oldest cities in America, along with Boston, St Augustine, and San Antonio. Originally settled by French explorers and later reinforced by French Acadians from Canada, NoLa retains a hybrid French- American culture found no where else.
Back of the cathedral-This translates into liveable, walkable city blocks in the old French Quarter that feel like Paris, combined with southern American building materials and styles. Thick walls for a hot climate, colors derived from local materials, architectural elements harkening back to a remembered homeland.
Brennan's Restaurant - This lovely pinkish color comes from using native adobe/terra cotta, derived from local soils, and diluting it with white clay, to make paint.

Riverboat Natchez - A wonderful way to spend a lazy afternoon




7/14/2016

Alaska Trip

                                              at Dawes Glacier...we got to watch it calve

Texas is hot 6 months of the year, and warm the rest of the time. We can have 90 degree days from Feb to June and again from Oct to Nov; days over 100F from July- Sept, and our "winters" average highs in the 50's and low's in the 30's. So we get pretty excited about getting away from this hot place, and going someplace that is cold.

Recently hubster and I made the obligatory Alaska Cruise tour, and sailed from Seattle through the Inner Passage and back. It was a glorious break from the heat.
                                                           Ketchikan, Alaska, in July

baby bear on the Yukon Highway

                                                             Whales bubble feeding


                                   So beautifully different from Texas - mountains in the Yukon
                                                         Salmon BBQ in Skagway
We sailed on Princess Cruises, and enjoyed ourselves very much. Chose anytime dining, avoided dress up night (people looked like they were going to prom) by dining in a specialty restaurant bar those nights.....I have just two words for you : Lobster mac-n-cheese. And three more words: Kobe beef burgers. 

5/13/2016

Cat Ladies, Lilly and Lula


Lilly and Lula – always pronounced “luler” by family members- were two ancient old ladies I was somehow related to. As a child, I never really understood the exact relationship, but we used to go visit them regularly on a Sunday afternoon when my grandmother Ruby was in town.
I don’t have any surviving photographs of these two ladies, so my memory will have to suffice: Lilly, the younger of the two and Lula’s daughter, was very slender, frail and delicate. Fine boned. Well proportioned, pretty. She had a beautiful face, with lovely fine cheekbones, pale clear skin, and slightly wavy gray-white hair cut in a pageboy style that fell just above her shoulders. Lilly had large clear light blue-grey eyes, the appearance of which was made even larger by the intense magnification of her spectacles – rimless with thin gold arms- that magnified them on her face. She was a china painter, Lilly was, and she did other crafts – sewing, crocheting, china painting, gardening, cooking – and she looked, to me, just like a Dresden figurine. Even in the 1960’s, she always wore simple classic A line skirts, a crisp shirtwaist style blouse, and lace up brogues. (My own grandmother wore shapeless calico cotton dresses I call “the Eleanor Roosevelt look”.)

Lula, I think, was Lilly’s relative, but here’s the confusing part: We visited this pair bc they were relatives of Ruby’s. I think Lilly was either a cousin, or else Ruby’s half-sister….I was a little child when I knew them, and the relationships were not clearly explained to me. The thing is, Ruby hated her step-mother, and Lilly did, too. They would tell stories from an obviously a shared childhood about how evil the step-mother was – in front of Lulu, while she was sitting there, and she was not a vegetable or anything, but it was clear from the stories that Lulu was not the evil stepmother. So was she Lilly’s mother, and Ruby’s aunt? Or was she Lilly’s mother-in-law?

The story I remember most involved a Christmas when they were little girls. There were a dozen kids in the family, and each child had only received one gift. The gifts appeared to be randomly handed out, or else had gotten mixed up – a toy truck for a teenage girl, a pretty dresser set (a tray with a hairbrush, comb, jewelry box, perfume bottle, etc) for a little boy.  Lilly and Ruby had tried to right the situation by organizing a gift swap amongst the kids, so each child got a gift that was most closely associated with his or her age, gender, and interests. Somehow, the evil step-mother got wind of this, and made them all trade back, which made everyone miserable and all the children cry. This made her even madder, and she took it out on Ruby, especially, and sent her to bed without her supper or grounded her or something like that. Both Lilly and Ruby told the story together, each filling in the other’s roles in the tale.

Whoever Lulu was, she was absolutely ancient. Keeping in my mind that my grandmother and her siblings were born in the 1890’s, Lulu must have been 20-30 years older than that. I know she was well into her 90’s when I met her. She had long snow- white hair piled high on her head in a tight bun.  A few wispy tendrils escaped and suggested wavy to curly hair, thick and luxuriant. By the time I knew her, Lulu was in a wheelchair. The little bit of skin I could see, mostly her face and the backs of her hands, were mottled with age spots and ropey with veins. Why is it that old people start to become transparent? Lulu’s dresses were shapeless and unremarkable, and she piled layers of sweaters and shawls on top of them, regardless of the heat. I don’t remember her wearing glasses, and I remember she had dark, piercing eyes, that seemed to bore right into you. She too, wore lace up brogues, with a 1 ½” cantilevered heel, they all did – that were getting harder and harder to find during this time period. Shoes from the previous century, really, like something you’d expect to see on a Gibson Girl.

Lilly and Lulu lived in a white frame bungalow house in an old neighborhood with enormous trees. No garage, just twin strips of concrete tile in the yard suggested a driveway that had never been used for a car. No one had ever learned to drive. The house had a front parlor, divided from the dining room behind it by a sort of see-through, white painted wood bookcase, room divider. The shelves of this bookcase were filled with tiny porcelain animals of all types which I loved to play with – there was very little else for a small child to do in this house during the interminable hours of a Sunday afternoon that we would visit, and the grownups would sit and talk and talk till it grew dusk. I was always very careful not to break the little porcelain animals, but my playing with the menagerie made Aunt Lulu very nervous. She didn’t speak much – I gather her hearing and vision were largely degenerated, but whenever I got them creatures, she would shoo me away. The irony of this is, they had more cats in that house than I had ever seen altogether in one place in my life. Dozens and dozens of cats, all of them Siamese. I don’t know how they kept the cats from knocking the figurines over- maybe that was Lulu’s entire raison d’etre, shooing curious cats and little girls away from her glass menagerie. I do remember that their entire house smelled pungently of male cat urine. It made your eyes water sometimes, it was so strong. Lilly and Lulu appeared to have grown used to it, but my family would be weeping tears from it after a few hours’ visit.

Does anyone else remember what those old bungalows, built in the 1920’s, were like? Wood floors in the front, in the “good” parlor and dining room. Rooms descending, straight back, without a hallway, feeding off each other. Rolled linoleum or checkerboard tiles in the rest of the house. Color schemes were often soft butter yellow, dull mottled red, or mossy green. A bedroom or two attached, almost as an afterthought, to the kitchen or “back” parlor. One tiled bath in art deco colors for the entire house: black and gold, pink and mint. I spent my childhood in so many houses just like this. The front, “public” rooms were filled with dark store-bought mahogany and walnut Victorian furniture: stiff horsehair chairs, elaborately carved sideboards and “whatnot” cabinets filled with painted china and cut glass. A strange blending of bedroom and family parlor, what we would now call a den or family room. Often, a four-poster bed in the corner, wearing a heavy duty solid color bedspread, and a few all wood chairs, side tables, and a reading lamp. Almost no one had a sofa back here; often the furniture was oak, simple, straight lines, and hand-made.  Only small scatter rugs, if any at all. So many of my relatives, even by the late 1960’s early 1970’s never even owned televisions. They had a radio in the kitchen and one phone, often positioned in a little niche in the wall.


Sometimes, after I am sure I’d worn Lulu down with trying to play with her animal figurines, I was sent to play out in the back yard. It was shady, and a breath of fresh air, but the grass was filled with sticker burrs. The cats, of course, were no fun at all: they perched on top of the refrigerator, or hid under the bed. Then, when it was time to leave, they would suddenly appear and weave in and out between your legs, purring and friendly. So many cats, you never could count or name them all. The prize cat amongst the herd was named Ling, an imperial blue point Siamese male. He would jump into Lilly’s arms and look at you, still except for his long tale, which switched back and forth, back and forth, like a cat clock. My mother always referred to Lilly and Lulu as “the cat ladies”, and our dogs seemed to agree. When we got home from these visits, they would sniff at us excitedly for hours, as if we had visited the most exotic place in the world. We imagined the dogs having a conversation between themselves, about the strange odors of the “cat ladies” house.

3/24/2016

What is it really like to live in Texas?

Dear Readers,

Did you know that I have a huge readership from Russia, the Ukraine, Europe and Britain? Numerous other readers from all around the world? I understand places that speak or read English fluently producing readers of this blog, but I am amazed and charmed by a large readership from other locales. Is it the lure of the exotic? The shadenfreude of someone else’s problems? Texas is one of those places – so often inaccurately depicted in movies and tv – that it has a mythic quality. People are curious, or maybe they fantasize about what it would be like to live here - just as Americans fantasize about living in Paris, Tuscany, or Fiji. We want to have a picturesque lunch in a small cafĂ© in a place that's not too hot or cold, with really great food, a lovely view, then stroll about and look at art or shop. What do people fantasize about living in Texas? Do they want to be cowboys and ride the range?


Thing is – none of that stuff exists any more. Hardly at all. Here is what living in Texas is really like.


People lived like this 150-200 years ago. But one of the key differences between the New World and the Old is that American cities don't generally keep their old stuff -buildings, especially - as they grow. Sure, we have some "old" (for us) buildings in Boston, New York, and the South. "Sunbelt" (so called bc they comprise the southern half of the country, from coast to coast) cities - those that really grew after WWII - never had that much old architecture to begin with, and generally it was in a dilapidated state. When people finally invented autos and air conditioning and started moving here, they just tore all the old stuff down and started building fresh. 


This is how we get to work each day. Each of these cars probably only has 1 person in it. Public transportation ? What's that? Terrorists blowing up trains, subways, and large crowds of people is a very remote idea to us. Sitting for hours in traffic jams and generating tons of pollution, all bc we want to be alone in our cars with the air conditioning and radio turned up full blast, is comforting and familiar to us.


We do have real cities, but the transition from urban to suburban/semi rural is sudden. Notice there are no people walking on the streets? That's bc it is too hot here. Imagine Rome in August or Calcutta anytime and that's what we have about 9 months of the year. Complete with mosquitoes. In winter, it's just gray, rains a lot, and ices over. No fluffy snow. No one walks anywhere. We drive.

But don't be fooled by this seemingly empty photo - there are 6-8 million people living in the D/FW (Dallas and Ft. Worth) "metroplex" (statistical urban area). It's 4th largest urban area in the country; made of of lots of  smaller cities, that used to be 100,000- 300,000 people, and were 30 miles apart, then grew and grew till they all intertwined with each other. It is not uncommon to have one school district or city government presiding over that of another city or even county, as well as it's own.


Lots of movies depict Texas as having mountains, or the kind of desert with a large saguaro cactus growing. That's bc they filmed the movie close to Hollywood, in California, Arizona, etc. Texas is bigger than France, so it is huge, over 1000 miles in each direction, and 1000 miles from the East or West coasts of the USA. Texas has several different geographical regions: Desert-like canyons in the far west (El Paso area). No one really lives there. Flat treeless plains, windy irrigated farms in the northern Panhandle area (part that sticks up, near Oklahoma). Central Texas has rolling fields and creeks, with large old oak trees and cows and wild flowers. For a brief moment, in the spring, it is lovely. East Texas is thickly wooded, like Alabama and Georgia, with pine, and has a "southern" culture to match. The coastal areas and south Texas are humid, rain a lot, are warm all winter long, and in many places swampy like Louisiana or Florida. 

Most of the population of Texas lives in cities. Dallas/Ft.Worth, Austin/San Antonio, and Houston  form a triangle that is verging on a "mega-city" larger  in both area and population than London or any of the larger cities on earth. I often describe Texas as "hot, flat, brown and ugly" bc for most of the year, it is. Developers tend to plow down the mature older trees to make way for new homes and streets, then plant new little twig-sized baby trees that are only a few inches tall.